J & J BettasFAQThese are a few of the questions we hear betta owners |
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Can I put my betta in with other tropical fish?Every betta, just like every person, has its own personality but they are not hyper-aggressive-attack-anything-that-moves fish. Somewhere along the line bettas got a bad reputation, probably because of their tendency to be highly territorial with members of their own species. In the wild male bettas establish very large territories which they defend aggressively against other bettas. When disputes do arise the males flare and puff up in an attempt to look large and threatening, and if this display fails to intimidate their rival only then do they engage each other. Not all fights in the wild end in one of the bettas dieing though, more often than not one betta will cede to the other before any severe damage is done and the looser will swim away with badly torn fins and a bruised ego. The good news is though that they reserve this aggression for other bettas only. I have kept bettas in aquariums with a number of other species without problem, just be selective in the tank mates you choose. Aggressive fish like cichlids will chew and nip at your bettas fins, and if you are trying to raise any sort of live bearers bettas will seek out the fry for a between meal snack. There has been some debate about bettas with other highly colorful long-finned fish like Gourmies, but my best advice is to watch your tank carefully for the first few days after adding any new fish to see how everyone is getting along. Just keep in mind the golden rule of fish, if they can fit it in their mouths they are going to make it into a snack, and if they fit into somethings mouth they are probably going to be a snack.
Can I keep a male and a female betta together? So you already know never to keep two male bettas together, but what about a male and a female? Unfortunately male bettas can not be kept with any other bettas, male or female. In their natural habitat the only time male and female bettas are found together is when they are spawning, and immediately afterwards the male chases the female away. In the home aquarium the male will chase and harass the female to the point of death so it is recommended to always house them separately unless you are trying to spawn them. For more information on spawning your bettas go to the breeding bettas page.
How about putting a bunch of females together in an aquarium? Female bettas are a little different as they are not nearly as territorial as male bettas and can therefore often be housed together. To do this I recommend starting with an aquarium no smaller than 10 gallons, and planting it heavily with lots of live or fake plants. Providing some good hiding spots’ using the plants or decorations ensures that your females do not always have to look directly at one another, it also gives places for them to hide if one of them gets overly aggressive. It is necessary to have a group of at least 3 as they will establish a pecking order and with only two the non-dominant one will be picked on endlessly. Observe your females carefully when you introduce them, a little fin nipping and chasing is perfectly normal as they are sorting themselves out but a keep an eye out for any overt displays of aggression one female chasing another relentlessly) and stressed individuals (hiding in a corner or under plants and not even wanting to come up for air). If you are noticing that there is too much aggressive behavior going on in your tank at any time try to pick out the culprit and just remove her. Doing this often will allow your other females to relax and they will usually go back to the occasional nip and flare.
Why won’t my new betta eat? Some bettas are picky eaters and many more are just a little stressed when you first get them. They had to go through the stress of shipping and sometimes sitting on a store shelf in a tiny cup, or hanging off the side of a tank with another male just inches away. After all this is it no wonder that they do not really want to eat. Usually their stomachs will get the better of them in a few days and they will begin to consume what you are offering. Although a fish that will not eat is always a little stressful for the new owner so here are some tips and tricks you can try; 1.) Check what kind of food you are offering to your betta, he may not like that particular brand or type (flake, pellet, or freeze dried) so for a few dollars invest in something different and give that a try. 2.) Make sure to remove any food that he does not eat in ten minutes from the bowl, it will begin to break down quickly and sour the water. 3.) You can always resort to bribery. I have not met too many fish that will turn down frozen bloodworms, and none that turn down live foods. Live food large enough for adult bettas is hard to come by, but frozen bloodworms are available at most pet stores. Feed your fish by breaking off a small piece and letting it thaw a little in your hands. Place it on top of the water right in front of your bettas nose (this type of food sinks quickly so you want him to be able to see it) and let it go. Try this 1-2 times a day and siphon out any non eaten food before bedtime. Most of the time this is enough to stimulate your bettas appetite and he will quickly move on to accepting other foods as well.
Do Bettas need heaters and filters? Bettas do best in temperatures between 76-80 degrees, but will be alright down to temperatures of about 70-72 degrees. If the room where you are keeping your betta gets any cooler than that you are going to want to look at putting in a heater. Additionally, if you are keeping your betta at an office or similar public space where the temperatures fluctuates between day and night (many office turn down the heat at night when the building is empty in an effort to save money) you many want to invest in a miniature heater. When choosing a heater for your betta’s home be cautious so as not to get one that is too powerful, you may accidentally cook your fish, and let it stabilize the water temperature before adding your As for filters, although bettas require clean water they do not need filters. Most mechanical filters create a fair bit of current (it is one way that they oxygenate the water) which bettas do not appreciate. The rice paddies that bettas originally come from have very little water movement, and bettas do not fair well it high currents. A preferable alternative to using filter is doing weekly or bi-weekly water changes of about 50%. I usually siphon out the water from the bottom of the bowls or tanks and replace it with fresh conditioned water twice a week.
Bettas and Salt Many people ask questions about putting salt in their betta’s water because somewhere along the line they heard that it was beneficial. There is truth to the benefits of small amounts of salt in a bettas water (about a teaspoon per 2.5 gallons), but only aquarium salt sold for use in tropical aquariums, table salt will kill your fish quickly. Salt helps to reduce a betta’s susceptibility to disease such as ich and fin rot, and when they are being kept in bowls or other isolated quarters it is beneficial. Unfortunately the issue becomes more complicated if you want start adding live plants and other fish to your betta’s environment. Most live plants will not tolerate salt in the water, and many fish will not either so you limit your options dramatically. Good fish husbandry will eliminate the need for salt in most cases, but it is something good to keep on hand as an initial ich treatment (not to be used for full blown cases), or if you have a betta with torn fins it will prevent fungus from forming.
If you have a question, or something you think should be included in this section feel free to e-mail us and we will do our best to reply to personally and may even post the answer here as well. |
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